"Money can't buy you happiness, but it can buy a ticket to Thailand." Anonymous
In the sweltering heart of the summer, I boarded a plane to Bangkok, Thailand. She is a city not unfamiliar yet veiled in secrets, a casual friend who whispers hints of her depth but guards her full story. As ancient rhythms blend seamlessly with the pulse of modernity, Bangkok called to me, an old friend poised to reveal another hidden layer or two. Join me for some highlights of my travels on the rain-slicked streets of this vibrant metropolis, seeking out food, catching up with friends, and peeling back another veil of a city that never ceases to captivate.
Day 1: Arrival and the First Whispers of Bangkok's Rhythm
As with any reunion, my journey to Bangkok came with its share of hiccups and pleasant surprises. Philippine Airlines, despite delays on each leg, softened the blow with its hospitable cabin crew and the comfort of its brand-new Airbus A350. It seemed Bangkok was already teaching me a lesson in patience and the art of rolling with the punches.
After landing at Suvarnabhumi Airport, the arrivals terminal greeted me with its familiar chaos - a cacophony of voices, a sea of faces, and the palpable excitement of travelers. Finding my pre-arranged electric vehicle limousine service felt like a game of hide-and-seek amidst the bustle. When I finally settled into my unknown-brand, but very comfortable, electric car, I was treated to a quintessential Bangkok experience: half an hour of expedient driving, followed by a nearly half-hour wait in stop-and-go traffic before reaching Sukhumvit's surface streets. The city, it seemed, was in no rush to reveal itself, preferring a gradual unveiling.
The Travelodge Sukhumvit 11 (30, 9-10 Soi Sukhumvit 11, Khwaeng Khlong Toei Nuea, Watthana, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10110, Thailand) was a welcome relief after a seven-hour flight. My surprisingly nice room became a comfortable haven, a base from which to launch my rediscovery of this enigmatic metropolis.
While I explored the narrow streets of the neighborhood, I was reminded of Bangkok's ability to throw curveballs. It was Buddha Purnima, and the usual cold beers were off the menu for the weekend. But like a good friend offering an alternative, the city presented me with refreshing calamansi lemonades, their tartness a perfect antidote to the afternoon heat.
As evening descended, I found myself at the Michelin guide-featured Burapa (26 Soi Sukhumvit 11, Khwaeng Khlong Toei Nuea, Watthana, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10110, Thailand). The moment I stepped inside, I was transported into the dining car of a train, its interior tastefully designed to evoke the romance of rail travel. This whimsical setting served as the perfect backdrop for my culinary journey. Here, Eastern Thai dishes danced on my palate, each bite a vibrant reflection of the bustling streets outside. It was as if Bangkok was offering a taste of what was to come - a week of flavors and experiences, both familiar and surprising. A quick side note: reserve your table (+66 2 012 1423) to avoid being turned away because it is a popular venue.
Day 2: A Michelin-Starred Confession with a River View
The next day, Bangkok revealed one of her more sophisticated faces, paired with a stunning riverside panorama. At Blue by Alain Ducasse (Unit L101, 1st Floor, ICONLUXE ICONSIAM Shopping Centre, Klongtonsai, Khlong San, Bangkok 10600, Thailand), I indulged in a five-course lunch that was nothing short of culinary poetry, accompanied by a mesmerizing view of the Chao Phraya River.
When I entered the restaurant, I was greeted by Coco, the maître d', whose graciousness and hospitality immediately set the tone for what was to be an extraordinary meal. Being the last sitting for lunch, there was an air of exclusivity, as if Bangkok had arranged a private showing of her culinary prowess just for me. But the truth is I made a mistake with my reservation and either Coco or one of her capable staff caught my error the night before and generously helped me fix my mistake to get the reservation I wanted.
Seated by the window, I was treated to a captivating riverside ballet. Ferries and commercial barges danced against and with the strong current, somehow avoiding each other in their voyages. This rhythmic aquatic performance served as a perfect backdrop to the culinary artistry unfolding on my plate.
Each course was a carefully orchestrated revelation, a blend of flavors that seemed to whisper secrets in a language I took ten-semester hours in, but still couldn't understand. But, like Jaime Lee Curtis in "A Fish Called Wanda," I was enthralled. Perhaps the stories being told of the river outside heavily influenced this imagery.
As I savored the last bites of dessert, I couldn't help but feel that this meal was more than just lunch; it was an intimate conversation with Bangkok herself, conducted through the universal language of exceptional food and framed by the city's lifeblood – the Chao Phraya. Thank you Coco, and to your excellent team.
Blue by Alain Ducasse
Day 3: Navigating Bangkok's Retail Labyrinth and Running Errands
After my light hotel breakfast, I was off into the city, enriching Grab drivers, shopping for my kids, and running errands. The city's retail scene is as varied and vibrant as its culinary offerings, ranging from gleaming modern malls to chaotic street markets. Thankfully, there were plenty of stops at street food vendors and coffee shops, and getting lost in the labyrinthine lanes of the city's endless shopping arcades. And, while most of the shopping was overwhelming and uneventful, the highlight of my shopping expedition was my visit to the Horse Unit, a vintage clothing store in Warehouse 30 (Warehouse, No.4, Charoen Krung 30, Bang Rak, Bangkok 10500, Thailand). This gem of a store unearthed treasures that whispered tales of bygone eras. Each carefully curated piece seemed to have a story to tell, adding a sense of nostalgia to my modern-day adventure.
As I ended my chaotic day drinking Singha beer and enjoying yummy food at an open-air restaurant, I reflected a bit. Bangkok's retail landscape had revealed itself as a microcosm of the city itself - a blend of old and new, traditional and modern, chaotic yet somehow harmonious. It was a day of discovery, not just of material goods, but of the city's enduring spirit of commerce and creativity.
Day 4: Balancing Acts and Speakeasy Secrets
The ensuing days were a blend of business and pleasure. After a busy morning, an old friend I hadn't seen in years took me to lunch at The Royal Bangkok Sports Club (1 Thanon Henri Dunant, Pathum Wan, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10330, Thailand). The club’s extensive 90 acres of sporting facilities offered a vast, verdant backdrop that lent itself well to our catch-up. As we exchanged stories and recent life updates over a relaxed lunch, the peaceful greenery seemed to isolate us from the city’s hustle, providing a serene bubble in time.
After lunch we visited my friend’s business, diving into discussions about new ventures and paths taken. Following some hearty goodbyes as the day began to wane, I found myself wandering into the early evening with no particular plan in mind.
Given the early hour, stopping by a bar might have seemed a bit premature to some, but it felt just right to me. I ended up at Propaganda Bar (4/20 Sukhumvit 33 Alley, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand), a nice place known for its inviting atmosphere, robust finger food, excellent signature drinks, familiar whiskeys, and live music that typically starts around eight. I didn't stay long enough for the entertainment, but the crab rolls and chunky fish fingers paired well with my whiskey before I ventured out into the thunderstormy night.
Day 5: Spectacular Flavors on Stage at Nahm
Despite a long night of bar hopping and far too many drinks, I woke up beat but thankfully, nothing close to the chaotic whirlwind of "Hangover II." The morning light crept in, reminding me that Bangkok still had more secrets to share and flavors to explore.
After spending some time working on a song for my album and catching up on some business emails, I ventured out for my culinary highlight of the day at nahm (GF, Como Metropolitan, 27 Sathon Tai Road, Thung Maha Mek, Sathon, 10120 Bangkok). There, I plunged into the depths of Thai cuisine that truly deserved its Michelin star. Each dish served at nahm was more than just a meal; it was a vibrant tapestry of Thailand’s lush landscapes and rich cultural heritage, masterfully woven into flavors that spoke of the land’s generosity and complexity. This hour-and-a-half-long lunch didn’t just sate my hunger; it enriched the soul, offering me a seat at a remarkable culinary performance. It is these kinds of meals that make me happy to be alive.
Adding to the exceptional experience was Clotilde, nahm's attentive food and beverage manager. Her detailed explanations of each course and genuine enthusiasm transformed the meal into a multidimensional exploration of Thai cuisine. Clotilde's professionalism and warmth complemented the exceptional flavors, enhancing my understanding and appreciation of each dish. Her presence turned an already impressive lunch into a truly memorable gastronomic journey. Thank you Clotilde for the enriching experience.
nahm
Fueled by the extraordinary dining experience at nahm, I set off on a different kind of mission: shopping. But not just any shopping—I was on a quest for the type of fatigues my father wore as a young soldier in the jungles of Vietnam. My internet sleuthing suggested that Bangkok might just be the treasure trove of hard-to-find military gear that had long eluded me.
Armed with the Grab Taxi app and several screenshots from surplus military gear Facebook pages, I dove into the painfully congested streets of Bangkok. Despite my hopes—perhaps amplified by my own imagination—the quest proved challenging. Seeking out sixty-year-old clothing was as tough as navigating the city's infamous traffic jams. Unfortunately, the search for these vintage pieces remained just out of reach, a testament to the elusive nature of such historic artifacts.
Day 6: Indian Flavors Under Thai Skies
Day six began with a stark reminder that I still work for a living. After addressing some very early morning emails, I grabbed a quick breakfast and then returned to several more hours of my day job. But as the week was winding down, I felt the pressure mounting to complete my shopping missions. Still optimistic, I hoped to find the elusive Asian Jungle fatigues that had brought me on this quest.
After lunch at an outdoor restaurant, my shopping efforts led me to Bangsue Junction (511 Kamphaeng Phet 2 Rd, Chatuchak, Bangkok 10900, Thailand), a colossal six-story indoor thrift shopping haven. As soon as I stepped inside, I found myself lost in a labyrinth of stores, each one brimming with antiques and various thrift items. The sheer scale and diversity of offerings were both exhilarating and overwhelming.
The thrill of the hunt propelled me forward, driving me to explore further despite the daunting scale of the collection before me. It was a tangible dive into the vast and varied market scene of Bangkok, a true treasure trove for those willing to lose themselves in its depths. Yet, after hours of searching, my quest for the fatigues remained unfulfilled.
With the day slipping away and my hands empty, I embarked on the hour-and-a-half drive back to my hotel. The ride back was a quiet reflection on the day's adventures, a mix of exhilaration from the chase and a tinge of disappointment from the elusive find. Back at the hotel, I prepared for dinner, ready to immerse myself in another of Bangkok's exquisite culinary experiences to cap off the day.
The day wrapped up at Punjab Grill (GF, Radisson Suites Bangkok Sukhumvit, 23/2-3 Soi Sukhumvit 13, Khlong Toei Nuea, Vadhana, Bangkok, 10110, Thailand), where the bold flavors of Indian cuisine blended seamlessly with the sophistication of fine dining. This culinary gem highlights Bangkok’s diverse and upscale dining scene. Each dish was a celebration of both tradition and modern flair, designed to engage and enchant the palate.
The ambiance at Punjab Grill combined elegant decor with the warm hospitality typical of Indian culture. As I indulged in each carefully crafted dish, from the succulent meats to the intricately spiced sauces, it became clear that this meal was more than just dining; it was an immersive experience in culinary artistry. This meal was a perfect end to a day filled with exploration.
Punjab Grill
Day 7: Unwinding and Culinary Delights
The day began on a slightly sluggish note, nursing a hangover from a night where beer flowed more freely than my usual whiskey. Yet, even in this state, Bangkok's charm didn't falter. A satisfying breakfast and a bit of work slowly brought me back to life, as if the city was gently coaxing me to make the most of my final full day.
By midday, my spirits lifted thanks to an excellent Michelin bib-gourmand meal at Thai Niyom restaurant (888/28-29 Mahatun Plaza, Ploenchit Road, Lumpini, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330, Thailand). I indulged in a couple of dishes accompanied by a cold soda, setting a fantastic tone for the afternoon. The food was not only budget-friendly but the atmosphere buzzed with youthful energy, making the meal perfectly suited for the moment.
Thai Niyom
Post-lunch, I found myself retracing steps from earlier in the week, picking up a few essentials from a store I had previously noted. This small act of familiarity made me realize how quickly Bangkok had become a comfortable space, a city I could navigate with growing confidence.
The day culminated in a heartwarming reunion with an old friend and some mutual acquaintances. Our gathering, filled with cold beers and engaging conversations, was the perfect way to wind down after a bustling week. It was as if Bangkok, knowing our impending farewell, had orchestrated this moment of connection and warmth. The casual evening was the prelude to my upcoming journey back with Philippine Airlines, rounding off my stay with the comfort of old friendships and the promise of new discoveries on future visits.
Day 8: A Bittersweet Farewell and New Revelations
As all good things must come to an end, so too did my week in Bangkok. The city, true to form, ensured that even my departure would be a mix of the seamless and the unexpected – a final reminder of its complex nature.
My journey back to Suvarnabhumi Airport mirrored the arrival – a smooth, quiet ride in the same electric limousine service that had first introduced me to Bangkok's streets. The airport check-in process was equally effortless, lulling me into a false sense of on-time departure. But Bangkok, ever the trickster, had one last surprise up its sleeve: a three-hour flight delay.
Fortunately, this unexpected extension of my stay wasn't long enough to jeopardize my connecting flight home. Unfortunately, it did curtail my layover plans, forcing me to miss a dinner engagement with friends. It seemed that Bangkok was reluctant to let me go, insisting on keeping me in its embrace just a little longer.
As I finally settled into my seat for the journey home, I reflected on the week that had passed. Bangkok had delivered an unforgettable cornucopia of tastes and experiences, each one peeling back another layer of the city's vibrant personality. From the train-car whimsy of Burapa to the sophisticated riverside dining at Blue by Alain Ducasse, from the bustling streets of Sukhumvit to the serene environs of the Royal Bangkok Sports Club, each experience had deepened my appreciation for the city's dynamic culture and culinary excellence.
This trip wasn't just a visit; it was an unveiling of yet another of the city's veils. Like an old friend revealing a long-held secret, Bangkok had shown me new facets of its character, leaving me simultaneously satisfied and curious for more.
As the plane took off, carrying me away from the glittering lights of the city, I couldn't help but smile. Bangkok, my old friend, had once again captivated me, leaving me with a wealth of new memories and the tantalizing promise of more secrets to uncover on my next visit. The city's final message was clear: our story is far from over; there are still more veils to be lifted, more layers to be discovered. Until next time, Bangkok. May your lights shine bright and your secrets remain deliciously elusive.
(Lead photograph by Olivier Darny. All other photos, such as they are, were taken by me; all copyrights are reserved).
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